Happily Ever After Schnauzer Stories

Yes, I agree that some people may have gotten into dog breeding for the wrong reasons, such as making money. They believed they could sit back and watch their dogs, have puppies, and make some cash.Unfortunately, this can lead to unethical practices and can impact the health and well-being of the dogs. It’s important to educate people on the responsibilities of dog breeding and to encourage them to do so ethically and responsibly.One way to educate people on the responsibilities of dog breeding is to provide them with accurate and up-to-date information on the topic. It’s also important to encourage people to ask questions and seek advice from experienced breeders. By providing people with the knowledge and resources they need, we can help ensure that dog breeding is done responsibly and ethically.

It’s so true that breeding dogs can be a complicated and expensive process that requires a lot of knowledge and expertise. While it’s great that more people are interested in dogs, it’s important to do so responsibly and ethically. While it’s great that more people are interested in dogs, it’s important to do so responsibly and ethically.

Most breeders will find breeding dogs from breeders that already do health testing on their adults, due to this the cost of a breeding dog is more expensive. A breeder will pay for the puppy price plus a breeding fee. This ranges quite a lot in price.

Cost of Feeding per year:Average cost of good quality food is $70 per bag plus taxes. If we assume one bag per month, that equals around $1000 per year in food costs. Plus $200 per year for vitamin supplements.

Vet Care Per Year: Vet Care includes vaccinations, deworming, flea and tick preventative. If there is no other treatments necessary (such as ear infections, injuries, etc.) this cost will come to around $400 per year. But obviously could get much higher.

Food cost; Average cost of good quality food is $90 per bag plus taxes. If we assume one bag per month, that equals around $1000+ per year in food costs. Plus $200 per year for vitamin supplements.

HealthTesting: Health Testing for every breed is different, but just doing Hip and Elbow Testing and breed specific DNA’s, you are going to pay around $1000. If you do eyes, patellas and other blood panels it can get upwards of $2000.

Also, flea & tick preventative. Heartworm preventative, If there is no other treatments necessary (such as ear infections, injuries, etc.) this cost will come to around $400 per year. But obviously could get much higher.

When breed conservation is done properly is an important aspect of dog breeding. However, it’s important to ensure that breeding is done responsibly and ethically to maintain the health and well-being of the dogs. It’s also important to consider the impact of breeding on the existing population of dogs.

I will be doing another blog post about the cost of breeding. People must understand what goes into it. Education, as I said, earlier is truly the key to helping wipe out puppy mills and unethical breeders. The bottom line is you cannot breed just to make money. Not only will you burn out and be miserable because you were tied down constantly by your dogs and their puppies but your life revolves around their knees heat dates, whelping dates, go home dates if you do not have a mentor and a passion for your breed, you will not love it, you will no longer enjoy it. Without a mentor, there will be a necessary death.

I don’t say all these things to scare people away. I once was in newbie at it as well. But I did almost a year and a half of research and found myself to people willing to be my mentor before I started breeding. I was also add an advantage because I come from a farming family.

All in all, I wrote this blog post to make people aware that you need to do your research before you choose who you purchase your furbaby from! You should ask how long they’ve been breeding, what made them get into breeding, and ask for references from the veterinarian that they partner with. Ask for references from previous Puppy buyers, Previous buyers that would be willing to speak with you about their experience. Also get them to video chat around their puppies and their dogs to see what the facility looks like to see what the reaction of the puppies is. This is an area where cleanliness is next to godliness. to the breeder. This is an area where cleanliness is next to godliness.

The best way to shut down puppy mills, and Covid breeders is to NOT buy from them. You are not saving a puppy by buying it from them. You are continuing their business. If you have serious concerns, please report them to the USDA, Humane society and local animal control .

Our post covid world has changed everything. Purchasing a puppy is not exempt from this. Many people saw the “puppy boom” as a chance to make easy money. Sadly, nothing could be further from the truth. All breeders are not created equal. I have created videos on avoiding scammers but feel I must now address a different issue in our industry, the covid breeder. This is a person who is a new breeder who just started in the last 18 months. Please understand that I am writing not about exceptions but, sadly, the rule. There are a few who have a mentor and are following best practices. How can you tell the difference between a responsible dog breeder and an irresponsible covid one? Unfortunately, not all dog breeders are ethical and responsible. Some are more concerned with profits than the welfare of their animals. Others believe they are doing the right thing but simply lack the knowledge and experience to be good breeders. Therefore, I will cover a few ways to tell the difference.

Yes, the market is saturated with puppies but not with quality puppies. They will respond when you message a breeder to ask questions about their puppies. Although when you ask, “how much,” you may hear crickets. So, if you are looking at prices, you can compare what is included in their price because I can assure you that breeding quality puppies are not cheap for a breeder. A good breeder cares deeply about their puppies; if cost is the top concern, I do not feel you need a puppy. Yes, everyone has a budget, and you need to stay within your budget, but a well-bred healthy pup will save you so much money in the long run.

The age-old saying, you get what you pay for, could not be truer regarding puppies; When looking for a puppy, make sure the breeder is not a scammer. The first sign is price; if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. If the average cost is, let’s say, $1,500.00 and the pup is $700, RUN.

Is the breeder reputable & can they give you references? Do they have reviews and previous buyers that you can speak with? Can you call their vet for a reference?

Have parents been health tested? Out of concern for the breed’s future, good breeders pre-screen both parents for genetic issues. Is there a health guarantee? There should be! Each puppy should come with a health guarantee. Suppose the puppy does develop a disorder that is covered in the guarantee. In that case, a responsible breeder will take steps to make things right by providing a refund, a new puppy, or by helping the owner with the problem. Many breeders require a contract in which the buyer promises to spay or neuter the puppy to prevent future backyard breeding and the deterioration of the breed.

Are puppies vet checked? If so, they should have something from their vet that states when they were examined, the outcome, and the results of their fecal analysis; this tells you if they had parasites. Have the puppies been wormed on a regular schedule since birth? This is every 2 – Did they receive a Parvo vaccine between 4- 6 weeks? Are age-appropriate shots given before pickup?

The socialization period of puppies is 12 weeks, and the minimum of that time (8 weeks but can be more) is spent with the breeder. This goes right into, are puppies socialized, friendly with people, and used to normal everyday sounds? Like tv, vacuum, everyday household noises, or scared of new situations?

Have the puppies been started on potty training? Litter box or potty pads, either is fine. BUT, if they promise a pup is potty trained, they lie. It is impossible to fully potty train a puppy 8-12 weeks.

Do you get breeder support to make the transition for your new puppy & afterward support? A reputable breeder should always be willing to help for the dog’s lifetime. They should also be willing to take the puppy back. The breeder should tell you that you can return the dog if at any time in the dog’s lifetime you determine you cannot keep it at Happily Ever After; we are proud of our zero shelter footprint.

Was the breeder easy to work with? It is a huge life event to get your puppy. You need to have a repour with your breeder. Ask any questions you want. A reputable breeder will answer all of them. Remember, a good breeder would ask you questions too. A responsible breeder should screen you or ask about your home environment and the life you can provide for the puppy.

What all comes with your puppy? We provide a Puppy pack; most breeders do and what is included depends on the breeder. All puppies should come with a vaccine and worming record, some food they are on, or a link to purchase the first bag at a discount? Are they eating dry kibble yet? If they aren’t, they are NOT ready to go home. We provide a blanket with the mom and sibling smell as well.

When talking to or meeting with a dog breeder, you must look at the facts and go with your gut. If something does not feel right, ask questions. If you doubt the breeder is responsible, your best bet is to walk away. Start from square one, looking only for a responsible dog breeder.

Trying to decide between the Miniature Schnauzer and the Schnoodle? These dogs can be similar in some ways but quite different in many others. Read on and find out which popular breeds are the perfect pup for your lifestyle! The Schnoodle is a cross between a Miniature Schnauzer and a Poodle.

Schnoodles are charming, funny, and intelligent, and their alert nature — thanks to that double dose of Schnauzer and Poodle attentiveness — makes them excellent watchdogs. They are small dogs and typically have a curly coat that must be groomed regularly. If you’re looking for a companion dog, you won’t go wrong with Miniature Schnauzer and Schnoodle. Their outgoing and friendly personality makes them an excellent choice for families. Both are highly affectionate with family and will immediately become family members.

Regarding behavior around children, the Schnoodle tends to do better. Miniature Schnauzer will be fine with family, but proper training and socialization are required. On the other hand, Schnoodle has a reputation as a great family and companion dog. Both the Miniature Schnauzer and Schnoodle have exercise needs. It means they will need at least 30 minutes of strenuous aerobic exercise most days of the week, preferably daily. And no, a leashed walk isn’t a challenging aerobic exercise – think of aerobic exercise as anything that makes your dog pant.

Schnoodles are intelligent dogs, given they’ve got the influence of the Poodle and Schnauzer genes. The Poodle is considered the second most intelligent dog breed in the world behind the Border Collie. Therefore, there’s already a good chance that a Schnoodle will be brilliant. The Miniature Schnauzer is 12th on the list. Considering all these factors, it’s safe to assume that a Schnoodle will be an intelligent dog. They’ll be quick to learn new commands and tricks. Schnoodles have the potential to blossom into much-loved family pets. They’re a friendly breed that loves to meet people and receive attention. You’ll often hear about Schnoodles becoming excellent therapy dogs, given their gentle and loving temperaments. They can make great family pets that have hypoallergenic qualities. Therefore, they could be a good fit for someone looking for a low-shedding dog. These intelligent dogs are relatively easy to train, but consistent practice is essential to prevent your Schnoodle from becoming too independent and stubborn. Some Schnoodles could be prone to barking and separation anxiety.

There are some behavioral differences between the schnauzer and the schnoodle, though it depends on how much poodle DNA a schnoodle receives. For example, the schnauzer is well known for its loyalty and alertness, while the schnoodle is more playful and friendly overall. Additionally, the schnauzer is extremely protective and can be very wary of strangers, while the schnoodle is more welcoming to strangers.

A final difference between the schnoodle and the schnauzer is their lifespans. While both of these dogs have miniature, the schnoodle lives a slightly longer life than the average schnauzer. However, it truly depends on the size of the dog as well as the individual health of the animal. This us why we do health testing and research on our breeding dogs. On average, schnoodles live anywhere from 12-16 years, while schnauzers live anywhere from 10-16 years.

If you have an further questions or would like to come meet a schnoodle, and us a message!

Anyone with a dog is probably aware that our amazing creatures are filled with wisdom that often escapes us humans (perhaps because they have less to think/worry about than we do!). Still, as humans, we sometimes fail to “tune in” to the essential lessons our canine companions are trying to share with us.

I recently shared a story on our social media discussing things we have learned from working with puppies and dogs every single day. I thought I would take the time in our blog to dive into that just a bit more.

Being more mindful of our puppy’s and dog’s nature, we can learn so much and teach us a few more life lessons….especially change!

First of all…..be open to change!  When a puppy leaves the litter, including their mother and siblings, they have no idea where they’re going. They don’t know where they might end up or who their new family will be. However, puppies are quick to embrace change. Puppies are such great sources of knowledge and mindfulness because they are into everything. They notice things, pick up items, and stick their noses in everything. No matter whether it is a puppy or an older dog, they often take note of new changes in their environment.  They are quick to notice and introduce themselves to their new environment.

As people, we’re usually busy and stressed. Truthfully, some of us might not even think we have time to be curious or to learn new things. Be Bold!  Curiosity is one of life’s greatest gifts! Learning doesn’t stop giving, especially,  if you are simply open to experiencing new change and ideas.  I’m not saying to reach out to something dangerous, but just pay attention to what your pup pays attention to. You’ll be surprised at how much you can learn from looking at the world through their little eyes and accepting a different point of view!

Learn from your puppy, simply embrace a possible change. You will experience growth. Trust me.

The next lesson is to learn to REST, RECHARGE and TAKE A NAP! If you’ve ever played outside with a dog on a hot day, you’ve probably noticed that many of them will take a time out and find some shade when they get too hot or tired. Animals instinctively know when they need to rest. We, as humans, have this instinct too, but we often ignore it in favor of getting more crossed off our to-do lists. Take a tip from your pup! Consider how you can make rest and relaxation more of a priority in your life. Resting might not sound productive, but the more rested and relaxed you are, the better you’ll be in every aspect of your life.

Babies nap. Small children nap. (Well, I never did.) However, we adults do not nap take time.  Often we go and go until we crash into the wall, and then go a bit more.  We refuse to sit still and rest.  Even sitting we are on our phones with our minds engaged.  In the United States, napping is seen as a form of laziness. Studies have shown that taking a short siesta in the middle of the day is good for productivity. In Europe, it is common to stop halfway through the day and take a short nap before resuming your work activities. In fact, many U.S. companies are embracing the midday nap. Forward progressive companies like Google, Nike, and Zappos believe naps will increase productivity. These companies are encouraging their employees to take short naps by providing areas with couches, recliners, beanbag chairs, and napping pods available to their employees.

I love naps. I don’t nap every day because of the general business of the dogs and running a household with five kids.  Occasionally, I will take a short nap when I need one. Naps are not a sign you are lazy. Your body needs to rest both physically, emotionally, and mentally. Napping allows your brain to recharge, which is why productivity increases when people are allowed to nap. Puppies and children have the right idea: take short naps.

Use your senses!

ALL of your senses. Have you ever paid attention to puppies? They smell, look, taste, touch, and listen to everything. They use all of their senses in ways that many humans do not. I love it! With their advanced sense of smell, dogs have an advantage over us. They ‘see’ things before we do. Because they love to chew, puppies will taste anything. (Whereas babies will not!) When I watch a puppy bite into a dandelion, and it disappears, they seem surprised. When they gnaw an acorn and spit it out, they seem annoyed. It’s so adorable watching puppies prance around with whatever their favorite toy is. Puppies have to touch everything. The grass. The bushes. The trees. The steps. The pile of dirty laundry my children leave on the bathroom floor. The best part, though, is when you see them stop, sit, and listen. When you catch that “adorable puppy head turn.” Sometimes, I know what has caught their attention: dogs barking, birds flying, squirrels scampering, one of the children running (like they are not supposed to) through another part of the house, the dishwasher starts, etc. Most of the time, I have no idea what sound has attracted their ears.

Savor every meal! Have you noticed how much puppies look forward to being fed? Children are not necessarily this way, but puppies are. Though puppies may not eat slowly, they enjoy their food.

Compare their behavior to ours:

• Have you ever eaten your lunch at your desk at work? (I have.)
• Have you ever eaten standing up? (I have.)
• Have you ever eaten while you continue working? Sitting or standing. (I have.)
• Have you ever eaten while texting, talking, or playing apps on your cell phone? (I have.)

A considerable part of nourishment is not only eating food but slowing down enough to enjoy it. How often have you been in a restaurant and watched a family ‘eating dinner’ with their heads down, looking at their phones? Zero conversation at the table. Every time I see that scene, it saddens me. Meals are one of the best times for families to talk, laugh, debate, etc. Part of savoring every meal means the phone is not on the table. Almost every morning, I read while I eat breakfast. During lunch, I listen to podcasts. But dinner is sacred. Whether we dine in or out, my family and I eat dinner together as often as possible.

• We enjoy our meal. We do not check our cell phones. (If we do, we call each other on it!)
• We do not check Facebook.
• We look each other in the eye. 

Perhaps puppies are lucky because they don’t have cell phones!  Whatever your distraction, stop and savor every meal. Maybe don’t wolf it down in a hurry to get to the next “thing,” but sit down, slow down, focus on your food, and taste every bite.

Be curious!

It’s a fact that puppies are curious, some more than others, to be sure. They are interested in the world around them. They want to know you and the rest of the family. They love to learn!

Curious people, who are lifelong learners, live longer. Think about it. If you are curious (i.e., always seeking new knowledge), you keep your brain active. I love talking and spending time with people. Though I don’t want to learn everything, I also don’t relate well to people who are not interested in learning. Curiosity is a valuable trait.

Personally, I’ve learned 80 percent of my computer skills (e.g., Microsoft Office, WordPress, Social Media Networking) by being curious. The other 20 percent I learned from classes or friends.

Be curious about the world around you. Be curious about the people around you. Be curious and interested in who you are and how you can make a difference for yourself and others.

FOCUS ON WHAT YOU VALUE MOST.

When it comes to prioritizing, pups are pretty great at doing it when they need to. Just put a treat in one hand and a ball in the other, and you’ll quickly learn your pup’s priorities. Even the most ball-loving dogs will typically choose the treats. It’s not always easy to choose (after all, dogs ideally want the ball and the treat). Like dogs, we only have so much time and attention every day, and we need to be mindful of where we place our efforts. Still, if you don’t mindfully focus your attention, the things you value most might not receive the attention they deserve.

LOVE WITHOUT EXPECTATION.

When it comes to human love, expectations are complicated to avoid. Still, the fewer you have, the better off you (and your relationships!) will be. This isn’t to say you shouldn’t have standards. You shouldn’t settle for less than you deserve (in love or in life!), but having standards is different than having expectations. Expectations, however well-intentioned, often lead to disappointment. And disappointments often build on one another, leading to resentment. Dogs, unlike most people, don’t love with expectation. They might occasionally (always) want something from you (food, a walk, a cuddle, etc.). Still, they don’t love you based on whether or not their expectations are met. Learning to love like that can be life-changing.

ESTABLISH YOUR BOUNDARIES.

Every dog I’ve ever owned has set clear boundaries regarding what they don’t like. These boundaries (and the way they are expressed) vary from pup to pup, but most dogs are good at letting you know what they do and don’t like with their body language. On the other hand, people are sometimes shackled by the chains of politeness. Rather than asserting clearly what we don’t want others to do, we often tiptoe around topics or soften our tone to avoid offending. While you shouldn’t feel the need to shout your boundaries from the rooftops, you should be aware that it’s okay (and even necessary!) to make your boundaries with others clear (even if that might mean a little growling from time to time…).

Wrapping it up….

This might not be the first time you’ve read some of these insights, but don’t discount the value of revisiting wisdom (especially when the source of such knowledge comes in an adorable pup-shaped package!). The more often you reflect on life lessons like these, the more likely you’ll be to actually take them into account in your day-to-day life. Taking ideas from the screen to the real world is where true wisdom comes into play. Suppose you’re lucky enough to have a pet. In that case, you’re fortunate enough to have a little guru by your side, a constant reminder that there is still so much to learn. Even the smallest of beings can impart wisdom in our lives.

Let’s be honest, you have to do some pretty strong interventions in the first 12 weeks of the puppy’s life in order to shape the kind of dog you would want to live with. The part our families have is the final four weeks of the most important socialization period (8-12weeks) for seeing new people and having new experiences. Puppies are still programmed to be happy and curious about everything that is new. We encourage our families to invite friends‚ adults and children‚ over as often as possible.

During your puppy’s first three months of life, he will experience a socialization period that will permanently shape his future personality and how he will react to his environment as an adult dog. Gently exposing him to a wide variety of people, places, and situations now makes a huge, permanent difference in his temperament. A puppy who is well-socialized will be a stable, well-adjusted adult. The puppy should be exposed to all kinds of adults, children, dogs, cats and puppies (healthy animals that will not hurt the puppy), and other things that it will be around in its adult life (horses, goats, motorcycles, etc). For example, if you intend to take the puppy on your family’s annual beach trip find a sandbox now, let them experience the sand and play ocean sounds while the puppy is eating. Take your puppy different places and have people and well socialized and vaccinated dogs come to your home. Get the puppy used to the usual sounds and objects. To a puppy, the whole world is new, strange, and unusual, so think of everything he encounters as an opportunity to make a new, positive association. Try to come up with as many different types of people, places, noises, and textures as you can and expose your puppy to them. That means, for instance, have him walk on carpet, hardwood, tile, and linoleum floors; have him meet a person in a wheelchair or using a cane, children, a person with a beard, wearing sunglasses, using an umbrella, or wearing a hood. Think of it as a scavenger hunt. Without socialization you will have to put your dog up when you have people over to visit. We want our dogs to be a part of our lives and be balanced dogs. This is only possible if your dog is socialized as a puppy. Having a dog who is well adjusted and confident can even go as far as to save his life one day. According to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, improper socialization can lead to behavior problems later in life. The organization’s position statement on socialization reads: “Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.” Start taking your dog out to public places once your veterinarian says it is safe, and he’ll learn to behave in a variety of situations and to enjoy interacting with different people.

The idea behind socialization is that you want to help your puppy become acclimated to all types of sights, sounds, and smells in a positive manner. Proper socialization can prevent a dog from being fearful of children, for example, or of riding in a car, and it will help him develop into a well-mannered, happy companion. The best time to start training your puppy is as soon as you bring them home. Puppies do a lot of learning before they are 16 weeks old. The following are a few helpful tips that will help make your new family member on to be proud of. If you put the work in over the next 2 months, the following 15 years will be wonderful.

RIDES IN THE CAR Take short trips with your puppy, just around the block or so, to get it used to riding in the car. Even a quick trip to the gas station is a good idea. Make the trips short and pleasant. If the only time the dog gets in the car is to go to the veterinarian and/or groomer, they may soon dread car rides. Remember to always use a crate, or a harness with a dog seat belt or a dog car seat. This is for the same reasons you put a child in a car seat. It keeps them from being throw out of the car or escaping in the case of a car accident. Dogs can be frightened and will run and could be hit by a car or lost in an unfamiliar place if a window breaks or a door pops open.

EXAMINE TOES Handle the puppy’s feet often, including rubbing between the toes. This will make it easier to clip the toenails and examine the feet as the dog gets older. We have clipped the toenails often up until the puppy goes home to help make this grooming piece just a part of life. Every time we pick a puppy we mess with their feet. Please continue this practice, your vet and groomer will thank you! To start clipping the nails, sit on the floor with your puppy beside you. Pick up a foot and clip 1 nail and giv your puppy a treat. The next night clip 2 nails give a treat; the next night 3 nails and treat, and so on. Eventually you will be able to clip all the nails in one session. By gradually building up, the puppy will not struggle, and future nail trimming will be easy.

BATHING Give the puppy a bath in baby shampoo or use a Chubbs Bar once a week or every other week so that your puppy gets used to being bathed. It is much easier to get a puppy in the tub and teach it to accept the bath rather than trying to get a full-grown dog into the tub that doesn’t want to go.

BRUSHING We have a whole section on this as a schnauzer is a dog that MUST be brushed and groomed. We have said over and over, daily brushing for a puppy in short 3-minute sessions makes it pleasant and a dog accepts it as part of life instead of viewing it as a torture session. Start brushing your puppy on day one so that your puppy gets used to brushing right away. This is good bonding time for you and the puppy, gets them used to being brushed so it isn’t a struggle as it gets older, and gives you an opportunity to examine the puppy for bumps, rashes, ear infections, make sure they have a clean bum and anything else.

EXAMINE TEETH AND EARS It is very important for you to start handling the puppy’s teeth and ears at an early age. It will get the puppy used to being handled, and make veterinary exams less stressful for your dog. As with toenails, start in small steps and work your way up. First just lift a lip and give a treat, then lift both lips and give a treat, etc.

NEVER LEAVE YOUR PUPPY LOOSE IN THE HOUSE UNSUPERVISED A young puppy is like a baby learning to crawl and explore, and an older puppy is like a toddler. Would you leave a toddler loose in your house, without diapers, unsupervised? Of Course not. You cannot house train a puppy if you aren’t supervising it, and puppies can chew electrical cords, furniture, shoes, and other items it shouldn’t. If a puppy destroys something, it is your fault for not watching the puppy.

HARNESS AND LEASH Get the puppy used to wearing a harness right away. When you first add the leash on, do it in the house and just let the puppy drag the leash around, supervised. After it is used to that, pick up the leash and just follow the puppy wherever it goes without pulling on the leash. After the puppy is used to that, start gently guiding the puppy, without jerking the leash. Pretty soon it will be walking with you on a loose leash wherever you go.

DON’T REWARD FEAR A common mistake people make is to cuddle the puppy or tell it “it’s okay” if it becomes frightened. This actually rewards the puppy for being afraid, and will cause the puppy to be fearful its entire life. Instead, let the puppy learn how to deal with the “scary” situation. At the same time, protect the puppy from anything truly dangerous that could harm it.

GIVING PILLS You don’t use actual pills for this, but if a puppy learns how to take medication when they are young, you won’t have to fight if it needs medication as an adult. Have your veterinarian show you how to give a pill, and practice with something your veterinarian recommends.

FEAR PERIODS Fear periods occur at 8-10 weeks, and again at 6-18 months. Your normally well-adjusted puppy will suddenly act afraid of everyday objects, such as trash bags or umbrellas. This is normal. Ignore the behavior during these periods. Don’t force the issue, as this will cause the puppy to be afraid of these things the rest of its life. This will pass.

JUMPING UP In order to stop the puppy from jumping up, you must decide what you want the puppy to do instead. You need to replace the bad behavior with a good behavior (for example, sitting to be petted). Whenever the puppy greets you or anyone else, only pet the puppy when it is sitting. If it gets up, stop petting. Tell people this in advance, and make sure they follow your instructions. Puppies jump to get attention, so be sure to always reward the sitting by giving the puppy some attention.

BITING/TEETHING Puppies chew on each other when playing, and don’t realize they should not play with humans the same way. When a puppy’s teeth make contact with human skin, stop playing; gently take the puppies muzzle in your hand, hold it still, and say “no” quietly but firmly; and leave the area where the puppy is. Pretty soon the puppy will learn that chewing on people is no fun and play will stop. This needs to be done by an adult only. Young children tend to jerk away and or hit the puppy. This will either excite the puppy into playing harder or make it fearful (and many dogs bite out of fear). Neither of these is a good outcome.

CHEWING Keep a supply of toys and other items around that the puppy is allowed to chew on, and never leave a puppy unsupervised with furniture or other items that you don’t want it to chew on. Chewing is a natural part of being a dog, and necessary especially during teething. During teething, soak an old washcloth in water and put it in the freezer. Give it to the puppy while you can supervise it. Don’t give the puppy things it can choke om or be otherwise injured with when you are unable to supervise it. Puppies have been known to swallow strange objects. Keep items away that are small enough for the puppy to swallow, or that have parts that can be chewed off and swallowed. We recommend Kongs, they are wonderful for letting a puppy get out its chewing needs. Kong toys are popular all over the world and there is one specific reason why dogs love them so much — They can be stuffed with food! Genius, isn’t it? But what food should you stuff it with. Many dog owners are struggling to find out what to put in a Kong toy for a puppy or an adult dog. But the options here are really endless. If you need some extra ideas on what to stuff your dog’s Kong toy with, check online for some easy, quick and delicious recipes that your canine will love! Kong toys are famously strong and durable toys. They were initially designed in the 1970s for dogs with “destructive chewing habits.” The classic KONG toy is made from natural red rubber and can be stuffed with KONG’s Easy Treats or other delicious snacks like peanut butter.

SIGN UP FOR TRAINING CLASSES Go to puppy classes: Once your puppy has started his vaccinations, he can also attend puppy classes. These classes not only help your puppy begin to understand basic commands, but the most important advantage is that they expose him to other dogs and people. Skilled trainers will mediate the meetings so that all dogs and people are safe and happy during the process. The AKC has great classes to set you up to earn your canine good citizen — the S.T.A.R. Puppy, which stands for socialization, training, activity, and a responsible owner. After completing a six-week training class, your puppy can take a simple test given by an AKC-approved evaluator. The puppy will be tested on allowing someone to pet him, tolerating a collar or harness, allowing you to hold him, and more. Also, you must pledge to be a responsible pet owner for the duration of the dog’s life. This program is open to purebred and mixed-breed dogs up to one year old.

A Miniature Schnauzer is a terrier dog that has a hunters’ heart and personality that is opposite to its size. It was bred as a farm dog but over time it has moved from farms to people’s homes, making them one of the most popular breeds in the world. This is due to factors such as the dogs’ small stature, friendly nature, and high intelligence. They don’t shed much from their coat, making them ideal for families that are concerned about shedding. They come in so many colors. Black, salt & pepper, and black & silver being the most common. Though they also come in Liver (chocolate), liver tan, liver pepper, sable, wheaton and parti versions of all of those colors.

Schnauzers, the miniature dogs, were bred first in Germany. This was in the late 19th century. Miniature Schnauzers are descendants of Standard Schnauzers and Affenpinschers and miniature poodles. They are the smallest among the Schnauzers. Also, they are the only terrier not originating from the European Isle stock.
Schnauze, in German, means beard. The mini schnauzer is definitely nosy, but in the best way. Take one look at a schnauzer’s face and you’ll know it’s referring to their distinctively shaped snout and flared-out whiskers that make them look like a grouchy old man. Over time it has moved on from farms and has become one of the top pets to people in houses and brings joy to those it lives with due to the personality of these dogs.

Miniature schnauzers were bred to live on farms but have over time moved to live in houses. They are one of the most popular dog breeds across North America, particularly in the US and in Europe (the UK and Germany). It makes for a fantastic house dog and has sociable characteristics. It has a strong desire to be included in all family activities ranging from lying around watching television to going out for a run. A true people pleaser and Velcro dog. These loving characteristics make the breed a good pet. This breed was registered by American Kennel Club (AKC) in 1926, the first one was a black parti. The breed gained popularity after World War II and have remained a dog lover’s favorite.

The Miniature Schnauzer is easily adaptable. Bouncy, playful, and full of attitude. A miniature schnauzer loves getting their nose into your business. With a mustache and human-like eyes, they want to know everything that’s going on around them. They are happy and in good health living in apartments and are equally happy running around farms and open spaces as a pet. Although if this pet is not trained properly, it can cause a nuisance with apartments having thin walls due to its barking tendencies.
Mini schnauzers, live with people and families and are pretty fearless of other dogs. Miniature Schnauzers are good with other dogs and cats, but be wary of having small pets around these pups. They were bred to chase rats and other small creatures, so if you have pet rats, gerbils, hamsters and the like, they may be at risk around Miniature Schnauzers. Miniature schnauzers are very smart and energetic and can be a lot to deal with for first-time owners. This is a fiercely loyal breed and once the owner has the dog’s trust, they would follow them everywhere. Mini schnauzers are ready to please their humans and learn new tricks. Miniature schnauzers do well in canine sports such as agility, obedience, and rally, but can also learn how to do some pretty advanced skills like fetching your shoes or opening doors.
Schnauzers are some of the most easily recognizable breeds on the planet.

First bred in Germany, the Miniature schnauzer was recognized by American Kennel Club in 1926 as a new dog breed. Miniature Schnauzers are no different in that regard when it comes to recognition. They show a similar boxy body shape and medium-to-long coat. With this dog’s squarish snouts and head and ears that fold naturally over the top of their heads, they have become one of the most adopted breeds across the world. Miniature Schnauzer’s thick coat grows quickly giving them a shaggy look. The fur is usually kept short on their bodies and head and long on feet, snouts, and belly. The schnauzers that are salt and pepper give them a very wise “old man” appearance. They have a box-like structure of body and face and have a thick coat all over. They are easy to maintain and shed very little although they require regular grooming as their hair growth is fast. Bulky, powerful little canines standing 12-14 in (30.4-35.5 cm), Miniature Schnauzers are reared down from their bigger cousins, Giant Schnauzers or Standard Schnauzers. This dog’s thick facial hair and eyebrows give them a beguiling, human-like demeanor and need regular grooming.

Because of how smart they are, miniature schnauzers will learn to communicate with you using both verbal and non-verbal cues. They naturally love to vocalize, bark, and cry to let you know how they feel. Some mini schnauzers bark or shriek at every noise to alert you. The barking tendencies are high to an extent that to a new owner they might become a lot to handle if not trained the right way that barking is an emergency only thing. They can be barking aimlessly at times although are quick to learn cues from their owners. Miniature Schnauzers are not typically biters but due to the fact that they have a high energy level in them, they are barkers when they sense danger.
The average life span of a Miniature Schnauzer is 13 -15 years and does not show signs of age until later parts of their life. They are prone to weight-related issues and their health must be monitored. An increase in weight increases the risk of ailments such as diabetes, eye issues, or bladder stones. They are omnivores and are usually fed dry dog food depending on their age. They are not to be fed human food as they are also prone to weight gain. So, the number of treats while training a Miniature Schnauzer puppy also needs controlling, this is why we recommend also using cherios, rice cakes, blueberries and carrots as well as commercial treats when training. This is because it makes them prone to many diseases such as pancreatitis, diabetes, bladder stones, and eye infections. It is very important that they have a quality food that is low protein and low fat. We use Royal Canin miniature schnauzer formula. It is also important to say that regular exercise can help them avoid these issues and stay healthy.

A mini schnauzer dog or puppy makes a very good pet, is incredibly loyal, smart, and easy to train. Also, they get along well with humans. Their different colored coats gives them an adorable appearance. Although, they can be a bit vocal and bark at any and all things, always remember what they were bred for, the DNA is in them and you can’t change that. This can be tackled with training early in their lives. They can be very good watchdogs and are very loyal and territorial. They can warn the owner of any and all dangers and strangers. You should socialize your Miniature Schnauzer early in life or soon after adoption so they can get used to a variety of sounds and smells.
The most important thing to keep in mind while training, is that they do not respond well to negative reinforcements or harsh reprimands. They are to be trained with positive reinforcement techniques and treats, depending on their age. With proper training and affection, they can become the perfect addition to families and households. They are also friendly with kids as well as adults and are loyal to the core. Since they are loyal and territorial, they can prove to be pretty good watchdogs. They would alert the owners about things such as a stranger being at the door, or someone walking by the street, and even a gust of wind.

The downside of Miniature schnauzer’s fierce, loyal and friendly nature is that they require constant mental stimulation and are often bored. Always remember, a bored schnauzer is a destructive schnauzer. Using puzzle toys, kongs and snuffle mats for feeding. Earning their food is an excellent and simple way to work their minds. This energy requires to be brought down by daily exercise and walks in the park or neighborhood. They need to be given daily challenges and tasks, depending on their age or boredom. Also, if you find you are busy and need some help, doggy daycare and/ or dog parks really help. To fight boredom they often become disruptive and destructive. They are very fond of playing with paper and if bored or left alone, they would shred toilet paper, wrapping paper, etc. Make sure that they don’t eat anything they are not supposed to as it might lead to health problems.

This popular breed can be trained to compete in dog shows and trials. Although due to their high prey drive, it is not a good idea to let the pets off the leash when they are not in a fenced area in the competitions. The American Kennel Club stopped the clipping of its ears for competitions and is now deemed illegal in the UK.
A miniature Schnauzer can cost you between $1300 and $4000. These dogs love cuddling. These dogs also sleep a lot (12-16 hours a day). Grooming these dogs should be done before they are 12 weeks old, and every 6-8 weeks following so that they are used to and tolerate grooming.

The Miniature Schnauzer has earnt its place as one of the most popular small breeds as a highly companionable breed renowned for its well-mannered behavior and stubbornness. They enjoy being in the middle of everything that is happening and being with their owner.

It’s been a hectic spring here at the farm. Lots of puppies being born, several dogs being bred. Some are first-time moms. We had two moms retire in 2021, and we have five retiring this year. These new moms are the ones that will be “replacing” (although, ouch that word sounds harsh, but we will get back to this later) them on the rooster. We retire our moms when they are between 5-6 years of age. Unless there is a reason, then we will retire them sooner. You may be surprised to learn that female dogs don’t go through menopause and can technically get pregnant throughout their whole lives. This can come as a big shock, but let me be clear, just because a dog can have puppies does not mean that they should.

When they become pregnant, older female dogs may have trouble giving birth. Seeing stillborn puppies in a litter is unfortunately quite common. Older dogs may have difficulty producing enough milk to nurse their puppies, who would die if not fed by us. Due to all these risks and complications, most reputable breeders decide to retire their dams when they are around five or six years old. To determine whether to retire a female dog from a breeding program, we consider the same factors as our male dogs. We will compare conception rates, litter sizes, the dam’s health, complications during delivery, and the time needed for recovery. Taking all these criteria into account can give you a good idea of whether it is safe to continue breeding our females. Of course, our vet is a huge part of our decision on when.

One knee-jerk reaction people tend to have when you announce that you will be retiring a breeding dog is that you somehow feel that the dog is expendable, that the dog is being objectified. The dog is solely about making money to breeders (let’s not get into in this blog whether or not breeders are making bank on their dogs, but the short answer is no, not usually if they are doing it right). So, let’s talk a little about breeding strategies and why a breeding program may need to retire or place dogs that don’t work out for the program. Many breeders will not choose to place dogs early on when they first begin breeding but find it is necessary if they wish to be a long-term breeder. Does it mean that a breeder doesn’t love these dogs they retire and place? No. One of the most challenging parts of breeding responsibly is choosing to place a retired dog. We need to be realistic; how much attention can a person give based on the number of dogs they have in their home? For a breeding program to continue for decades, breeders must keep puppies from their litters. What happens if one doesn’t pass health testing? Would that puppy enjoy a better life as someone’s beloved and cherished pet instead of part of an extensive breeding program?

I am honored to bring them into the world in my hands, and I have loved them from day one. I would not dare breed unless I had a passion FOR my breed because this ultimate decision to seek a new home for my retired adults takes a piece of me every single time. Every. Single. Time.
We must screen potential homes with the adult dog’s temperament and personality in mind. We must meet and talk with potential families and make this decision with caution. We genuinely want the best for these dogs, even if that means a life away from the home they grew up in.
Breeders who are breeding for the improvement and love of a breed often are faced with the necessity of retiring and placing adult dogs. It can be a difficult decision for us. We are lucky to find excellent homes that become like family to us, but that does not make it easier to do. We thank those who have opened their homes to a beloved retired dog. We also thank those who are supporting breeders by doing so because this allows them to continue to contribute to their breed’s preservation by being able to continue to breed.

I am hopeful that this gives you an overview of our program, so you know what we are doing with our dogs. We have always put out to the world that we are transparent, so I wanted to share this with all of you.

We use Embark DNA testing; all our males are tested and half of our females; we are doing multiple tests per month to get all our breeding dogs health tested. We hope our breeding practices will help eliminate hereditary genetic issues in our breed.

We feed all our dogs Royal Canin, either small puppy or if over ten months we provide miniature schnauzer adult.

We treat every other month with ivermectin for heartworm prevention. We use K9 Advantix II for flea and tick prevention. We also have mosquito authority spray all outdoor areas our dogs are in April-October to prevent issues. We have our males quarterly on a worming schedule with fenbendazole.

Prenatal Protocols;

B-strong from Doc Roy is given the month before heat is due until bitch comes into heat; this is done to ensure they have all the minerals and vitamins to have healthy eggs and hopefully a successful pregnancy. Oxymate from Breeder’s edge is given from heat to whelping. We are try to have our x-rays done on days 54-58 (from the first tie). This is to know if there are any problems, the number of puppies (so we know when she is done), should we do a c-section for the safety of the mothers, when should we expect the puppies (is the due date of 63 days from first tie accurate).

We worm mom for three days, starting day 60 with fenbendazole (1ml per 2lbs) to prevent issues with puppies getting worms from mom. We also do one day of Toltrazuril (1ml per 5lbs) to prevent coccidia from being an issue with puppies. We also start our moms on Royal Canin Starter Food for mother and puppy the last trimester and keep them on that food until they wean their puppies.

Whelping;

We give Oral Cal Plus from Breeders edge, 2ml after the first puppy is born and 1ml after each subsequent puppy birth. The next day we start our moms on PetCal tabs and give those until puppies are two weeks old. We start the on fenugreek for milk production three days before their due date and continue until the puppies smell like maple syrup to ensure a good milk supply. If there is an issue with mom not wanting to eat, we give Mother’s Pudding (a recipe from Puppy Culture). We also give Doc Roy’s GI Synbiotics mixed with Royal Canin’s starter mousse to help with appetite stimulation.

Puppy Protocols;

We perform ENS (early neurological stimulation) with our puppies on days 3-16, except for the day of tail docking, and we also skip the day afterward. We weigh our puppies once or twice a day depending on how they appear to be doing and if they are gaining up until they are two weeks old.

Worm prevention is pyrantel for three days at two weeks of age, fenbendazole for five days at four weeks, at six weeks repeat, at seven weeks we give toltrazuril for three days, we give fenbendazole for five days.

Vaccines;

For puppies, we give neopar at six weeks, and eight weeks, we give Duramune Max 5-CvK, if a puppy is still with us at ten weeks, usually our teacups, we repeat Duramune Max 5-CvK as well as we provide a kennel cough vaccine. (if we keep a puppy for our program, they get four doses of Duramune Max 5-CvK at two-week intervals, we also make sure that a puppy we get for our program has four doses of DAPPV)

For our dogs, we give Duramune Max 5-CvK yearly and kennel cough. We start with a one-year rabies between 12-16 weeks of age. Subsequently we do Three-year rabies; easy with males but it is fun to try to plan around heats and pregnancy.

We microchip all our dogs, and if a puppy parent allows us, we microchip our puppies, about 95% allow this.

We get an annual AKC inspection, we are in compliance and I am proud to say that there are no concerns!

Our Kennel is two-story, with office space on the second floor; the building footprint is 30×40. It is heated and has running water. There are ten runs; inside is 5×5, and the outside 5×10, except one, is 10×10 to allow for space for play for dogs that are 8months to 18months. All runs have two lick-its, so there is always fresh, clean water and have chowhounds that are checked daily. There are two dog beds in each run, and they are sanitized when the interior is sanitized on a weekly interval. Due to staff and ourselves, each dog is handled daily; we do decompression walks in our pasture. There are no puppies in our Kennel at all! We have a dog washing sink and grooming area in our Kennel.

We have a whelping room (25×10) is in our house, climate-controlled and monitored by cameras for when we are not in the room. We raise our puppies in our home as well, all of our dogs not in a guardian home are rotated through our house so that get attention and love, if you have ever come by, you were likely greeted by no less than 5 schnauzers!

In raising our puppies, we use many things from puppy culture, such as ENS, emotional response training, and daily changing of toys and new surroundings. We feed them with puzzle toys, slow-feed bowls, and snuffle mats to stimulate their brains. They are given pig ears, cow hoofs, rib bones, and teething toys. They are started on pee pads in a grated holder (for safety reasons), and their areas are cleaned multiple times a day. Their stainless-steel water pails are daily put through the dishwasher for cleanliness. We have a play area for our older puppies and moms and any dogs that are currently in the house. It has 6′ fencing and has 4″ of gravel. It is 16×24; its sanitizing schedule is also included. It has shade and an industrial fan for the dogs’ comfort in the heat of the summer months.

We have had to retire females as early as two years or never breed them if there is a medical reason. We have skipped a heat when there is a medical reason. I love my dogs and do not ever intentionally put them in harm’s way for profit. We retire our females between 5-6 years old or if there is a dramatic drop in litter size. We retire males at the end of their 8th year unless medically needed to be done sooner.

We have four females that will be retiring the end of this year…time flies when you are having fun.

As I was talking about writing this week, my daughter asked me if she could write this weeks blog post, I thought why not? I explained that it needed to be about the dogs and our life here, she went to work. She wasn’t finished last night and though she graciously offered to stay home from school today I told her it would be fine to finish it after school today. So here you go, Scarlett first published article. You guys are in for a treat. I only edited spelling and some grammar. Enjoy!

Hello, my name is Scarlett, and I am the baby of my family. You have probably seen me in my moms’ videos. I have really long hair down to my waist. My favorite foods are watermelon, strawberry, banana, apples, and oranges. My favorite colors are pink, purple and blue. I’m seven years old. In most ways, I am a typical 7-year-old girl. Although I have a big family, I am never lonely. I have tons of friends, and My favorite hobbies are baking, anything art-related, playing, and spelling. I also love to annoy my mom. And she annoys me too. We live on a farm and raise miniature schnauzer puppies. And finally, I’m in second grade at Salem Baptist Christian School; go Vikings!

But I have some more things to tell you more about myself. I live in North Carolina. I wish I could move to a new house near the house we live in now. I want to have a huge farm and a pool. My mom says no pool until we move. Right now, I live in Mocksville, NC. And the miniature schnauzers are so cute. I love that my mom has the business that she has now. I’m glad, but I have some more things to say. I just want to say I love my life so much that I love my mom. I want a phone, but my mom says I’m too young, my older sister is 14, and she has her own phone! I tried telling my mom I could help with puppy pictures and do videos for her, but that argument didn’t work. Honestly though, I have the best life that a girl could ever have!

Here is my dog life!
My dog life is about miniature schnauzers and socializing little baby puppies. I love that job so much. They need lots of time and love. The parti schnauzers are my favorite because they are all so unique, and I adore salt and pepper because, I mean, they are classic and so cute. My job is important. I love my job so much. I love my dog Josie; she is the prettiest and the best. I just want to say thank you, Amanda Shores, for letting me have her. I really just love her so much. And she is a Teddy Bear; they are schnauzer and Havanese; mom says they are designer dogs, but I say they are pure perfection. The downside of being a guardian home for Amanda is that I can’t have her when she has her puppies. That makes me sad.

I like schnauzers, but I do not like the schnauzer cut. I like the Teddy Bears more than schnauzers because they are fluffier. It is sort of crazy for me. I enjoy my job so much, except I do not get paid in money. I get paid in puppy kisses. I do have the pleasure of loving different puppies all the time. It is so much fun to snuggle and play with the puppies.

People ask me a lot what I think of having so many dogs. I like that my mom has so many puppies sometimes; I can’t believe we have many puppies.
Here’s how I socialize the puppies, I get them used to loud noises. I get them used to children. I also get them used to being held in different positions and how kids play with them and pet them.
I love my mom more than dogs. There are a few parts I don’t like. I do not like my mom’s being busy because she has many clients and teaches people about breeding. Sometimes I really like a puppy, and I don’t want it to leave. I also hate when they go from being perfectly fluffy to the dumb schnauzer cut, But I still love my mom.